Green Chicken Tamales (Tamales Verdes de Pollo)

Shredded chicken in a tangy tomatillo and serrano salsa verde, tucked into masa beaten fluffy with lard and chicken broth and steamed in corn husks.

Why it works the kitchen science

Step by step

1. Step 1

   Put the tomatillos, garlic and chiles in a pot, cover with water and bring to a boil over high heat. Lower to medium and simmer about 10 minutes, until the tomatillos turn pale green and soft but still hold their shape.

2. Step 2

   Blend the tomatillos, garlic, one chile and 1/2 cup of the cooking water until smooth. Add the cilantro, onion and salt and blend again; add the second chile if you want more heat. Heat the oil in a saucepan over medium, pour in the salsa and simmer 6 to 8 minutes, until slightly thickened and darker. Cool, then stir in the chicken.

3. Step 3

   Soak the husks in hot water a few minutes, until pliable, and drain.

4. Step 4

   Beat the lard about 1 minute until very light. Add the salt and cold water and beat 2 minutes more, until white and spongy. Beat in the baking powder, then add the masa harina and broth a little at a time, alternating, and keep beating until smooth and fluffy. Drop 1/2 tsp into cold water; it should float. If it sinks, keep beating.

5. Step 5

   Lay a husk narrow end toward you. Spread about 3 tablespoons masa into a 2 to 3-inch square, about 1/4 inch thick, leaving at least 1/2 inch at the sides. Add 1 tablespoon filling, bring the long sides together, roll them the same way around the filling and fold the narrow end up. Stand them upright as you go.

6. Step 6

   Bring water to a simmer below the steamer rack, line the rack with one or two layers of husks and stand the tamales in it, open ends up, tucking extra husks into the gaps. Cover with more husks and the lid and steam over medium heat 50 to 60 minutes.

7. Step 7

   Test one: it is done when it releases easily from the husk and is still moist. If not, steam 10 minutes more. Turn off the heat and rest 10 minutes before serving.

Tips

• The salsa and chicken can be made a day or two ahead (Jinich).
• Steamed tamales hold warm in the covered, turned-off steamer for about 2 hours (Jinich).
• Jinich's optional seasoned oil: brown a thick onion slice and 4 garlic cloves in 1 cup oil for about 15 minutes, lift them out and use the oil instead of lard.

The rules people argue about

What the sources agree on, what they don't, and what is just a good story.

• Tamales verdes are a Candelaria tamal. Documented: La Razón lists green tamales among the most common for February 2.
• Green means tomatillos. Folklore as a rule: Jinich's and Bayless's green tamales both use tomatillos and green chiles, but cooks also call tamales "verdes" for green chile fillings.
• Fresh masa is always better than masa harina. Disputed: Bayless says the best tamales use fresh-ground masa; Jinich's recipe is built on masa harina, and ATK calls masa harina alone bland and adds grits.