American Diner French Toast
Day-old challah dipped in a light vanilla batter with a little flour, browned in butter in a cast-iron skillet, and served the American way with butter, powdered sugar and maple syrup.
The name is older than America. Lexicographer Grant Barrett quotes the Oxford English Dictionary's earliest citation, from Robert May's "The Accomplisht Cook" (1660): "French Toasts", French bread toasted on a gridiron and steeped in wine with sugar and orange juice, no egg involved. He also takes apart a popular American story that an Albany, New York, innkeeper named Joseph French invented it in 1724; he found no evidence, and the OED's citation is 64 years older.
What America added is breakfast. Wikipedia says French toast was popular in the railroad dining cars of the early and mid-20th century, that the Santa Fe was especially known for it, and that some railroads handed out recipes as promotion; in the United States it is commonly served with butter, powdered sugar and maple syrup (citing John Kelly in Classic Trains, 2001). In France, pain perdu is served as a dessert. The American diner serves it for breakfast.
🇺🇸 This one is American
Day-old challah dipped in a light vanilla batter with a little flour, browned in butter in a cast-iron skillet, and served the American way with butter, powdered sugar and maple syrup.
🇫🇷 The original
In France it's pain perdu, "lost bread": thick day-old brioche soaked in vanilla milk and eggs, browned in butter and caramelized in the oven, served as a dessert. See the Pain Perdu (French "Lost Bread") recipe.
Why it works the kitchen science
One egg per batch and a little flour
ATK found that more egg made the toast taste eggy and heavy, and that a thicker batter with flour browns evenly while letting just enough moisture into the center.
A preheated cast-iron pan
Five minutes on medium makes the skillet evenly hot, so the butter browns the batter fast and the outside crisps before the middle can turn soggy.
Step by step
- Step 1
Heat a 10- to 12-inch skillet, preferably cast iron, over medium heat for 5 minutes. Heat the oven to 200°F and set a wire rack on a baking sheet inside.
- Step 2
Lightly beat the eggs in a shallow dish. Whisk in the melted butter, then the milk and vanilla, then the sugar, flour and salt until smooth.
- Step 3
Soak a slice of challah about 40 seconds per side (30 seconds for sandwich bread). Don't let it get soggy. Let the extra batter drip off.
- Step 4
Swirl 1 tbsp butter into the hot skillet. Add 2 soaked slices and cook about 1 minute 45 seconds, until golden brown, then flip and cook about 1 minute more.
- Step 5
Check one slice: the center should be hot and set, 160°F. If not, lower the heat a little and give it 30 seconds more per side.
- Step 6
Move the slices to the rack in the oven to stay warm. Add 1 tbsp butter for each new batch and cook the rest.
- Step 7
Serve two slices per plate with a pat of butter, a dusting of powdered sugar and warm maple syrup.
American Diner French Toast
Serves 4 · 8 thick slices · 35 min total
Batter
- 2 large eggs
- 4 tbsp butter, melted
- 1 1/2 cups whole milk
- 4 tsp vanilla extract
- 1/4 cup sugar
- 2/3 cup all-purpose flour
- 1/2 tsp table salt
Bread and skillet
- 8 slices day-old challah, 3/4 inch thick (about 1 lb), or 12 to 16 slices sandwich bread
- About 4 tbsp butter, for the skillet
To serve
- 2 tbsp butter
- 1 tbsp powdered sugar
- 1/2 cup maple syrup, warmed
Method
- Heat a 10- to 12-inch skillet, preferably cast iron, over medium heat for 5 minutes. Heat the oven to 200°F and set a wire rack on a baking sheet inside.
- Lightly beat the eggs in a shallow dish. Whisk in the melted butter, then the milk and vanilla, then the sugar, flour and salt until smooth.
- Soak a slice of challah about 40 seconds per side (30 seconds for sandwich bread). Don't let it get soggy. Let the extra batter drip off.
- Swirl 1 tbsp butter into the hot skillet. Add 2 soaked slices and cook about 1 minute 45 seconds, until golden brown, then flip and cook about 1 minute more.
- Check one slice: the center should be hot and set, 160°F. If not, lower the heat a little and give it 30 seconds more per side.
- Move the slices to the rack in the oven to stay warm. Add 1 tbsp butter for each new batch and cook the rest.
- Serve two slices per plate with a pat of butter, a dusting of powdered sugar and warm maple syrup.
Adapted from America's Test Kitchen, "French Toast for Challah or Sandwich Bread" (August 21, 2007), doubled from 4 to 5 challah slices to 8 slices for 4 servings. The batter, soak times, skillet preheat and cooking times are ATK's. The 200°F warm oven, the 160°F check and the butter, sugar and syrup for serving are ours. America's Test Kitchen. Ingredient list follows the source; the method is in our own words.
All sources (3)
Tips
- ATK's flavor swaps: add 3/4 tsp cinnamon or 1/2 tsp nutmeg with the flour, or use almond extract instead of vanilla.
- Feeding a crowd: ATK suggests two skillets at once.
- No challah? Good presliced sandwich bread works; soak it a little less.
- Use tongs for challah and a spatula for sandwich bread (ATK).
The rules people argue about
What the sources agree on, what they don't, and what is just a good story.
- Joseph French of Albany invented it in 1724. Folklore: Grant Barrett found no evidence, and the OED cites "French Toasts" in 1660.
- It's called French because it uses French bread. Disputed: Robert May's 1660 recipe does call for French bread (OED via Barrett); Wordorigins.org suggests the name more likely comes from crediting fancy cooking to the French in general (search summary only).
- The more eggs, the richer. Disputed: ATK uses one egg for 4 to 5 slices to avoid an eggy taste; German Arme Ritter uses 5 eggs to 1/4 liter of milk (our Arme Ritter recipe).
- Railroads made it famous. Documented as popular in dining cars, the Santa Fe especially (Wikipedia citing Classic Trains); "made famous" is our shorthand.
- Use day-old bread. Documented (ATK).
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