Kabocha Purin (Japanese Kabocha Pudding with Caramel)
Japan's custard pudding made with sieved kabocha squash, baked in a water bath over dark caramel, chilled and turned out so the caramel runs down the sides.
Purin is Japan's name for custard pudding, the caramel-topped flan-style dessert sold in every bakery and convenience store; kabocha purin makes it with Japan's favorite squash. Japanese Cooking 101 describes its version as a pudding filled with smooth, sweet kabocha puree. Kabocha is itself a migrant: Wikipedia repeats the story that Portuguese sailors brought the squash to Japan from Cambodia in 1541 and that "Camboja abóbora" was shortened to kabocha, though it also offers another root, the Portuguese "cabaça" (gourd), and the 1541 story has no source in the article. The name history is DISPUTED.
Why it works the kitchen science
A water bath
The hot water around the pan keeps the custard's edges from rising much above the boiling point, so the outside does not overcook while the center sets, which keeps it smooth and free of bubbles.
Tempering with hot dairy
Pouring hot milk into the eggs while whisking warms them gently, so they thicken in the oven instead of scrambling.
Step by step
- Step 1
Heat the oven to 350°F and bring a kettle of water to a boil. In a small heavy saucepan over medium heat, cook the sugar and water without stirring, swirling the pan now and then, 5 to 8 minutes, until medium to dark amber. Pour it into a 6-inch round cake pan (not springform) and tilt to coat the bottom. Let it harden.
- Step 2
Cut the kabocha into 2-inch pieces and steam 15 to 20 minutes (or microwave, covered, 8 to 10 minutes) until a fork slides in easily. When cool enough to handle, scrape the flesh from the skin, mash it and press it through a fine strainer. Weigh out 312 g.
- Step 3
Whisk the eggs and sugar in a large bowl. Heat the milk and cream in a small saucepan over medium heat just until bubbles appear at the edge, about 3 minutes, then pour them slowly into the eggs, whisking the whole time.
- Step 4
Whisk in the kabocha puree and vanilla until completely smooth, then pour the custard over the hard caramel.
- Step 5
Set the cake pan in a larger baking dish, put it on the oven rack and pour boiling water into the dish to come halfway up the cake pan. Bake 35 to 40 minutes, until a knife in the center comes out clean and the center reads about 175°F.
- Step 6
Lift the pan out of the water bath, cool 30 minutes, then refrigerate at least 3 hours. Run a thin knife around the edge, set a plate on top and flip to turn it out. Keep leftovers refrigerated up to 3 days (our guideline).
Kabocha Purin (Japanese Kabocha Pudding with Caramel)
Serves 8 · one 6-inch round pudding · 1 hr 15 min total
Caramel
- 1/3 cup sugar
- 3 tbsp water
Custard
- About 1 lb kabocha squash, to give 11 oz (312 g) smooth puree
- 2 large eggs
- 1/4 cup sugar
- 1/2 cup whole milk
- 1/3 cup heavy cream
- 1/2 tsp vanilla extract
Method
- Heat the oven to 350°F and bring a kettle of water to a boil. In a small heavy saucepan over medium heat, cook the sugar and water without stirring, swirling the pan now and then, 5 to 8 minutes, until medium to dark amber. Pour it into a 6-inch round cake pan (not springform) and tilt to coat the bottom. Let it harden.
- Cut the kabocha into 2-inch pieces and steam 15 to 20 minutes (or microwave, covered, 8 to 10 minutes) until a fork slides in easily. When cool enough to handle, scrape the flesh from the skin, mash it and press it through a fine strainer. Weigh out 312 g.
- Whisk the eggs and sugar in a large bowl. Heat the milk and cream in a small saucepan over medium heat just until bubbles appear at the edge, about 3 minutes, then pour them slowly into the eggs, whisking the whole time.
- Whisk in the kabocha puree and vanilla until completely smooth, then pour the custard over the hard caramel.
- Set the cake pan in a larger baking dish, put it on the oven rack and pour boiling water into the dish to come halfway up the cake pan. Bake 35 to 40 minutes, until a knife in the center comes out clean and the center reads about 175°F.
- Lift the pan out of the water bath, cool 30 minutes, then refrigerate at least 3 hours. Run a thin knife around the edge, set a plate on top and flip to turn it out. Keep leftovers refrigerated up to 3 days (our guideline).
Adapted from Japanese Cooking 101's "Kabocha Purin" (8 servings), as written. The page gives no chill time; the 3-hour chill and the temperature check are ours (see the baseline above). Japanese Cooking 101. Ingredient list follows the source; the method is in our own words.
All sources (2)
Tips
- Sieving the kabocha is what makes it silky; don't skip it.
- Japanese Taste suggests extra caramel sauce or a dollop of whipped cream, and Pickled Plum says other squash or canned pumpkin puree work in its version.
The rules people argue about
What the sources agree on, what they don't, and what is just a good story.
- Kabocha's name comes from Cambodia. Disputed: Wikipedia repeats the Cambodia and Portuguese-sailor story with the year 1541, but cites nothing for it and also gives the Portuguese "cabaça" as a possible root.
- Purin must be steamed, not baked. Folklore: home recipes do both; this one bakes in a water bath.
- Kabocha is a pumpkin. Folklore as a botanical point: kabocha is a winter squash, and "pumpkin" is a kitchen word, not a botanical group (Wikipedia files it under winter squash).
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